Visiting Moldova: The Least Visited Country in Europe (And Why I’m Glad I Went)
TL;DR
The Quick & Dirty Version Moldova is Europe’s least-visited country, which makes tourists feel more valued and able to experience daily life in a new country – my favorite kind of travel. We spent seven nights navigating Soviet-era brutalism, world-record wine cellars, a side trip a country that ‘doesn’t exist’ and enjoyed remote working from Chisinau. The short version? It’s incredibly affordable, the wine is world-class, and the delicious food make the trip worth it.
Look, I’m not gonna lie to you: most people can’t point to Moldova on a map. When I told people Z and I were flying into Chișinău, the standard response was a blank stare. The reality is, Moldova is gritty, authentic, and hasn’t been polished for Instagram yet. It’s a relatively new country with some complicated politics, trying its best to get into the EU and keep its citizens from going abroad for better opportunities.
Quick Need-to-Know: Logistics and Getting Around
The logic of Chișinău is simple: don’t walk when you can take a Bolt or Letz. While some travel maps mark the country with “unsafe” warnings due to regional politics, the reality on the ground felt perfectly fine. Yes, there are some beggars in the main squares, and you’ll want to stick to the lighted areas at night, but it’s not the “danger zone” people imagine. In fact, I always judge a country by testing if the drivers stop for pedestrians at crosswalks, and Moldova passed this test with flying colours.
Getting to Chișinău & Local Transport
We flew a new route on Wizz Air from Prague. 1.5 Hours and less than 100 euro round-trip. Once you land at Chișinău airport, ignore the “freelance” taxi drivers. Download Bolt or Letz. Card payment worked perfectly.
The eSIM & Connectivity Situation
The second we touched down, I had data. We grabbed an European Airalo eSIM before landing, and it was a total game-changer. Navigating a city where the street signs are in Romanian is a lot less stressful when Google Maps and Translator actually work.
Best Things to Do in Chisinau
Chișinău is a city of contrasts. You’ve got the Nativity Cathedral in the center—restored after WWII and looking pristine, and then you’ve got the massive Soviet-era blocks. Sidewalks may not be the smoothest, but the parks were exquisitely taken care of and a great place to grab a coffee at Bonjour Cafe and people watch whilte listening to French music (I never did find out why they’re obsessed with French culture).
Free Walking Tours and Local Legends
We did a free walking tour via Guru Walks where I met Dina the dog. She’s a local legend who co-leads the tours. Z basically wanted to kidnap her. I reminded her of our “no extra luggage” policy. We also spent time visiting the theaters, museums, many named after national heroes like Mihai Eminescu. The history here is dense, primarily defined by the 1991 independence from the USSR and the 1992 Transnistria War.
The 24/7 Flower Market
One place that fascinates me is the 24/7 flower market near the park. I don’t care who you are, there’s something deeply civilized about being able to buy a bouquet of lilies at 3 AM. I’m not sure why the demand exists at that hour, but the market is massive and the lights never go out.
I’ve read some places that Chisinau is the “most boring capital city” but on this trip, I wasn’t looking to “see sights” but rather live my life in a new place for a week. I get enjoyment out of seeing new ways of living, trying new foods, and learning about a new culture.
Where We Stayed: Chisinau Accommodation
We stayed at the Central Park Chisinau Apartments for about $75 a night. Located in a residential building right next to Stefan Cel Mare Park. Super convenient for meals at La Placinte and Andy’s and the nearby Eugen Doga pedestrian street. The host let us pay $25 more to check out at 4 pm as our flight was at 7. I’ve got a full breakdown of the gear that keeps me sane in these apartments – including my white noise machine for those thin walls – on my travel gear page.
- The High-End Optimization: Radisson Blu Leogrand Hotel. This is where you go if you want peak comfort and “Worth It” luxury.
- The Budget Alternative: Komilfo Hotel. Great location and funky vibes.
The Best Wineries in Moldova: How to Beat the Tour Prices
You cannot visit Moldova without going to Mileștii Mici winery. It holds the Guinness World Record for the largest wine cellar on earth with 200 kilometers of underground tunnels. We didn’t bother with the more expensive tasting menus, as it was mainly about food with a few included wines. Instead, we opted to order wine by the glass in their outside courtyard for $1.50 a cup. One thing to note, no matter how warm it is outisde, it’s chilly in there so bring a jacket!
Pro Tip: Don’t book an expensive organized tour from the city center. We pre-booked our tasting online directly with the winery and then just took a Bolt there for $11. It was significantly cheaper and gave us more flexibility. You actually drive through “streets” named after wine varieties. It was about 25 minutes outside of the city. The tour included a free bottle of bubbly, and as we were already at our weight limit, we ‘had to’ finish it off before heading home.
For a more refined, “curated” experience, we went to Carpe Diem in the city, a few blocks from our flat. This is where we tried the local Viorica and some incredible orange wines. The winemaker himself runs the shop and tailored the tasting to our preferences and we learned quite a lot about local varieties of grapes that would be difficult to try elsewhere.
Day Trips from Chisinau:
Visiting Old Orhei and Cricova Winery was highly recommended by our local guide. We’ve heard reports that Cricova winery, though not a world record holder, is even better than Milestii Mici. If you’re not interested in a full tour, you can always go to the main bus station in the city and take a marshrutka for just a few dollars, though it will be a bit less comfortable and you’re tied to their shedule and capacity.
Crossing Borders: Transnistria and Gagauzia
Halfway through the trip, we took a trip for two nights to Tiraspol. This is the capital of Transnistria (correctly called Pridnestrovie), a breakaway region that technically doesn’t exist. It’s a time capsule with its own money and Lenin statues. I wrote a whole separate, deep-dive article about our visit to Transnistria if you want the logistics on that. We also looked into a Gagauzia day trip to see the autonomous region of the Gagauz people, another layer of Moldova’s complex history. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for this as it is 2.5 hours away, but it would have been really interesting.
Moldovan Traditional Food:
We spent an evening at Taproom by Litra for their trivia night. It was Z and me against teams of ten, and honestly? We held our own.
The food was Texas-influenced and being from Texas, I have a high bar for BBQ. The brisket was okay. The sauce was okay.
For actual Moldovan traditional food, head to Taifas and enjoy some music with your meal. Make sure you reserve in advance; we saw them turn away many walk-ins. Order the Mămăligă (cornmeal porridge) and the Baba Neagră cake.
You’ll find many locations of LA PLĂCINTE throughout the city that offer an even more affordable way to experience all of the traditional dishes. Andy’s is another local restaurant that is open 24/7.
If you need a break from polenta, head to one of the many Georgian restaurants throughout the city. Georgian is one of our favorite cuisines and we enjoyed our meal at Chikapulya.
What We Spent: An Honest Budget Breakdown
Moldova is one of the most budget-friendly destinations in Europe. Here’s the damage for two people over 7 nights:
- Accommodation: ~$427 (including the $25/night flat in Tiraspol)
- Flight: $128 + Luggage $40
- Food & Drink: ~$400 (we ate well)
- Transport: ~$119 (mostly Bolt and private transport to/from Tiraspol)
- Tours: $25 in Chisinau, $300 in Tiraspol
- Total: ~$1,400 for a full week for two people (it can be done cheaper for sure)
I didn’t need to file a claim this trip, but I never leave without SafetyWing travel insurance. In a place where “unrecognized borders” exist, you want that safety net, especially as Transnistria may be excluded from most insurers’ coverage.
4 Things I’d Do Differently Next Time
- Do More Day Trips: I would have enjoyed visiting Old Orhei, the Cricova Winery, and Gagauzia region but time and logisticis didn’t allow for it this trip.
- Explore the Suburbs: The map showed some more really nice parks and local places to visit, but we stayed closer to the central square this time around.
- Experience More Nightlife: We had some early mornings, so we didn’t get to experience nightlife in the city, though I always try to visit Karaoke.
- Learn Russian Basics: Mainly reading Cyrillic would have been helpful.
Scent of the Trip
Every place has a smell. For my Moldova and Transnistria trip, I wore Ganymede by Marc Antoine Barrois as I wanted something powerful enough to last all day and love its otherworldly mineral-esque bubble it creates.
Is Moldova Worth It? (The Honest Take)
To me – Yes! It’s not for everyone and doesn’t need to be first on your list. But if you want a country that feels like a real-life history lesson with incredible wine and food, then visiting Moldova is a 9/10 recommendation.
FAQs About Visiting Moldova
Ever had a food combination that made you question everything? Let me know in the comments.
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